WHAT SURFING HAS TAUGHT ME

The best surfer is the one having the most fun.
  1. You aren’t in control. You never were.
  2. Life outside of the Internet.
  3. The world seems much more manageable while everyone is sleeping.
  4. In the water, no one cares about who you are, what you do, or how much money you make.
  5. Great whites are only worrisome beyond 6 feet.
  6. Men might be more powerful surfers, but there’s hardly anything more beautiful than a woman walking a longboard.
  7. Sunblock (and most oil-based products) removes tar.
  8. It’s about that singular moment where earth, wind, and water collide.
  9. I don’t need anything to be happy beyond a wetsuit and a surfboard. Really puts it in perspective.
  10. Shuffle your feet, so as to not step on stingrays and have ‘em puncture you.
  11. I was sitting out in El Porto on a glassy morning with sun rays dancing around me, a fleet of dolphins weaving between myself and the few others out, perfectly A-framed rights and lefts firing shoulder-high, and realized that this was happening long before I got here and will be long after I leave.