WHAT SURFING HAS TAUGHT ME
The best surfer is the one having the most fun.
- •You aren’t in control. You never were.
- •Life outside of the Internet.
- •The world seems much more manageable while everyone is sleeping.
- •In the water, no one cares about who you are, what you do, or how much money you make.
- •Great whites are only worrisome beyond 6 feet.
- •Men might be more powerful surfers, but there’s hardly anything more beautiful than a woman walking a longboard.
- •Sunblock (and most oil-based products) removes tar.
- •It’s about that singular moment where earth, wind, and water collide.
- •I don’t need anything to be happy beyond a wetsuit and a surfboard. Really puts it in perspective.
- •Shuffle your feet, so as to not step on stingrays and have ‘em puncture you.
- •I was sitting out in El Porto on a glassy morning with sun rays dancing around me, a fleet of dolphins weaving between myself and the few others out, perfectly A-framed rights and lefts firing shoulder-high, and realized that this was happening long before I got here and will be long after I leave.