Ryan Skeen recently put this dry-aged eight-ounce cheeseburger on the menu at Church Street Tavern. http://grb.st/1FbGuWL
  1. The menu somewhat modestly describes this estimable thing as a tavern burger: "dry-aged house blend, Vermont cheddar, bacon-onion relish, fries, $19."
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  2. What it fails to note is that the blend includes not only strip and rib-eye trimmings, as well as whole muscle from sides of Wagyu that Skeen gets from a Vermont farm co-op, but also beef heart for a soupçon of added gamey funk.
  3. Given a crusty sear in a hot pan, the loosely packed pucks are minimally glazed with the cheese. A judicious dose of housemade bacon-onion chutney cut with malt vinegar only highlights the richness of the meat.
  4. And a Grandaisy brioche bun has enough of a squish factor to satisfy the Martin’s Potato Roll contingent. Even a smattering of arugula doesn't detract.