What We Ate at Take Root Last Night
A tiny, delightful restaurant in Carroll Gardens, staffed entirely by a charming married couple, serving a set menu to one seating three nights a week. Go soon. http://take-root.com/
- •Anjou pear with chicken liver and juniper berries.Delicious little bites, foie gras-y flavor but light.
- •Lamb dumplings with black garlic and garlic root.This was when it came back to us that the chef trained at Acquavit; lots of neo-Scandinavian flavors followed.
- •Sturgeon caviar with sunchoke purée and fried sunchokes.One of the better caviar dishes I've had in a long time; reminded me of the first time I had Thomas Keller's oysters and pearls.
- •A light butternut squash soup with little butternut squash bits the size of chickpeas and "warming spices."Excellent, and "warming spices" seemed to be South Asian.
- •Beetroot with hickory, egg yolk, and kumquat.Nicely weird little salad; don't remember the kumquat.
- •Turnips, clams, and macadamia nuts.Most standout dish of the night. We were sure that what the clams and turnips were swimming in had something to do with tahini, but it was apparently all the macadamia nuts.
- •Duck with pearl onions, a raisin purée thing, and something called "musrad," according to the menu.Great, but I'm a sucker for well-cooked duck.
- •Beluga lentils with coffee and black truffles.Another standout, just for being such an unusual and perfectly wintery way to close out the savory courses.
- •Hibiscus and sour celery granita.How excited can you get about a granita? Especially when it's virtually a blizzard outside?
- •White chocolate mousse-type thing, with quince and wheatberry and then some tart cranberry purée thing to cut the sweetness.Everything you want out of a fancy-pants dessert.