HOW TO SURF
In SoCal. Now I may be betraying my inner kook here because "real surfers" (not me, I've been doing it 5 yrs) think there are enough surfers as is, but it really is the best.
- •1. Get stoked, bruhThe best thing about surfing is that you start unironically using words/phrases like "shredding," "gnarly," "glassed off," "smack the lip," strong offshores," "get shacked" and "solid swell."
- •2. Take a lessonSanta Monica beach south of the pier.
- •3. Watch YouTube tutorials
- •4. Watch Malibu Hamish videosFamous among SoCal surf brajs of my age, Malibu Hamish is a true character. I love his web series "No balls no nets." Heres a fav. http://bit.ly/1d0GmPl
- •5. Buy a foamtop board and wetsuit and car strapsBuy a big 8 or 9ft foamtop (soft so when you fall you don't hurt self) and a 3/2mm (thickness) wetsuit which will be good year round in LA. Go to a ValSurf shop.
- •6. Find your breakThe best beginner break in LA is at Sunset Blvd and PCH. Go on Surfline.com to find breaks, read surf reports, research when it's good to surf and where, watch cams of other breaks.
- •7. Go "surfing"You'll mostly just paddle and flail. You need paddle strength to put yourself in the right place at the right time and that takes practice.
- •8. Do this roughly 8 more times before you finally catch your first waveBut then you'll be like http://bit.ly/1DOll39
- •9. Don't get discouragedEven Kelly eats it. http://bit.ly/1DOlljo
- •10. Get over how creepy the ocean isBasically almost no unprovoked shark attacks in SoCal. Central and NorCal is where sharks bite surfers. Also dolphins surf. http://bit.ly/1DiE448
- •11. Watch bros fight and yell at each other in the waterIt happens and it's usually pretty funny. http://bit.ly/1G7RaC5
- •12. Don't be a kook
- •13. Ride the barrel, get pitted, so pitted.
- •14. Shoot the pier
- •15. Ride giants