Here's how to achieve the large, soft, yellow curds of your dreams.
  1. Egg-to-pan ratio
    For best results, scramble a maximum of 3 large eggs at a time in an 8-inch pan; no more 6 large eggs at a time in a 10-inch pan.
  2. Beforehand
    Consider toast, and get that set up to begin when you start heating the pan. Also consider warming the plates in a microwave (not essential, but a nice touch). Also decide on augmentations, if any (below) and have them ready.
  3. Break your very fresh eggs into a bowl about an hour ahead of time.
    Cover the bowl and let the eggs come to room temperature.
  4. Begin warming a heavy pan over medium heat 3 minutes before you begin.
    High-quality stainless steel is good.
  5. Beat the eggs with a fork or a small whisk, adding pinches of salt and pepper.
    Don't overbeat or the eggs will become tough. They just need to be smooth.
  6. Add butter to the pan.
    About 1 tsp. per egg. (For extra nonstick insurance, you can spray the pan first w a little nonstick spray.) Tilt/swirl to coat the pan.
  7. Quickly pour in the beaten eggs.
    Keep the heat at medium - no higher. As the eggs begin to set, gently push the curds from the bottom to one side, allowing uncooked eggs to flow into contact w the pan. Stop & let it puff for a few seconds, then repeat: nudging, waiting. The puff time is key to tender results.
  8. When eggs are almost, but not completely, set, transfer to the plate(s).
    They will finish cooking from their own heat. Serve pronto, possibly w toast.
  9. Add milk?
    I never do, because I think it toughens the eggs (excess protein coagulation). But you can if you wish. Better idea: a touch of cream or full-fat ricotta for voluptuousness (the fat will rule). And if you want to go puffier, add 1Tbs water per large egg.
  10. Optional augmentations
    Beat in a tiny amount of minced herbs (chives, parsley, basil) // Stir in a handful of chopped spinach before the eggs go into the pan//Sprinkle in a little grated cheese during the final nudge.
  11. And...the French double-boiler method, if you have extra time
    For the creamiest curds imaginable, use a double boiler (simmering water over medium heat) and stir constantly. (Egg-pan ratio = flexible & forgiving.) This will take up to 20 minutes, but will be brilliant. Maybe save this method for a rainy Sunday morning when you're hanging out w a friend.