THE NEWEST TRENDS IN NEW YORK PIZZA
It’s not just about New York versus Neapolitan anymore. Here, an introduction to the city’s latest pizza styles: http://nym.ag/1Pfl414 (Photo: From top left: GG's, Emmett's, L'amico, Mission Chinese Food, Bruno Pizza)
- •Chicago Thin Crust: Emmett’sChicagoans, it turns out, do not limit their pizza intake to deep-dish, the style New York pizza snobs refer to as a casserole with identity issues. That is the news at Emmett’s in the South Village, where the kitchen recently introduced New York to the pleasures of the Chicago thin-crust style ($18). Its defining features: a rimless 1/8in.-thick crackerlike crust, a zesty tomato sauce minimally applied, and a three-cheese topping. The round pie is sliced into tiny squares, known as a party cut.
- •Bread Baker’s: Mission Chinese FoodDough has always been the key component of good pizza-making, but perhaps never as much as when it’s masterminded by bakers like Tartine Bakery’s Chad Robertson, who consulted with Danny Bowien on his wood-oven-fired Hot Cheese Pizza ($14). Besides providing the sourdough starter, Robertson recommended a mix of flours: the conventional double-zero, plus an organic blend of hard red winter wheat from Utah’s Central Milling. Tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella are from Italy, pepperoni from Di Palo’s.
- •No-Droop Neo-Neapolitan: L’AmicoThe biggest complaint New Yorkers have against authentic Naples-style pizza is that it’s wet and floppy in the middle, encouraging otherwise upstanding citizens to abandon propriety and eat it with a knife and fork. Laurent Tourondel has a solution. His wood-fired sausage-panna-and-shishito pie ($14) exemplifies all the winning attributes of a classic Neapolitan pizza but without the sag. This thing is light and airy with good crispness and just the right amount of tender chew.
- •Modernist DIY: Bruno PizzaScratch-cooking is a given in this artisanal age, and so it is at Bruno Pizza, where the chefs mill their flour in-house, combining whole-grain healthfulness with an envelope-pushing approach that might madden purists. This can make for interesting, often polarizing results, but seems to be the wave of the future. So do unorthodox toppings, like fermented tomatoes and lovage on the Margherita, bottarga on the Summer Greens, and spreadable pork sausage and stinky washed-rind cheese on the Nduja.
- •Iconic Italian Dish as Pizza: GG’sThis is not a pizza style per se but a burgeoning topping trend. GG’s Italian Wedding pie (meatballs, escarole, mozzarella, and pecorino; $18), which interprets the flavors of the classic Italian-American grandma soup as something you can pick up and eat with your hands, is a good recent example. So are Marta’s Patate alla Carbonara pizza, Co.’s new Italiana (an Italian hero disguised as a pizza), and early adopter Otto Enoteca e Pizzeria’s Cacio e Pepe pie.